Sketch, restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and chef Pierre Gagnaire’s opulent pleasure palace in what was once Christian Dior’s Mayfair salon, celebrated its 20-year anniversary in 2023. The interiors set the tone – all sumptuous velvet and plush, patterned carpet – and the cuisine matches it. Head chef Daniel Stucki sends out waves of complex, multi-component preparations based on fine ingredients from near and far. Perhaps native lobster with black rice galette and coastal herbs or Limousin veal rack with savory and nigella cooked en cocotte before the legendary Grand Dessert. The wine list, a heavyweight tome, can hit five figures at the top end.