Umu, entering its 20th year, is the only restaurant to have survives the collapse of Marlon Abela’s M.A.R.C group; it now operates independently from its Mayfair mews home. Executive chef Ryo Kamatsu has spoken louder and longer than any in London about ikejime, the traditional method of handling fish practiced in Japan since the 17th century. His menus champion line-caught Cornish fish, alongside game, caviar and wagyu. Umu’s Kyoto-style kaiseki experience offers a seasonal menu paired with sake, wine and sparkling wine.