The wine cellar at the Vineyard in Stockcross is one of the most garlanded in the country, with some 3,000 bins, 100 served by the glass. California wine rules – no surprise, given that it’s owned by Sir Peter Michael of the eponymous Californian winery. There’s even a “Judgement of Paris”–themed pairing with the tasting menu. The kitchen gently modernizes French-inspired pairings such as foie gras mousse, rhubarb, ginger and shiso or aged Galician beef with beer-roasted onions and lovage