This bastion of haute cuisine on the banks of the Thames in bucolic Bray opened its doors in 1972. Close to five decades later, it remains the home counties’ ‘special- occasion’ destination par excellence, helmed by Alain Roux, scion of the legendary Roux dynasty. The menu represents but the gentlest update of Gallic tradition: consider the signature, spit-roasted Challans duck with mandarin jus and chestnut choux buns, or lobster medallions with white port sauce.The cellar is exclusively, unapologetically all-French.