David Everitt-Matthias has famously never missed a service at Le Champignon Sauvage, the restaurant he and his wife, Helen, have run in Cheltenham for 32 years. The couple always put old-fashioned hospitality first, insisting on comfortable chairs, well-spaced tables and a groaning cheese trolley for their valued guests. In other ways, Le Champignon Sauvage has been pioneering: classically trained Everitt-Matthias has been foraging and reevaluating “forgotten” ingredients since long before it was in vogue.