This 20-seat counter restaurant in Fitzrovia features the cooking of the talented James Knappett. Working from an open kitchen. Knappett, whose CV includes stints with Thomas Keller and Marcus Waring, serves hyper-seasonal tasting menus only, with each course denoted by a single word: crab, or seaweed, or pigeon, for example, all sustainably sourced or foraged. James also offers a vegetarian menu. His wife, Sandia Chang, is the sommelier, and she has organized a wonderful list of wines that includes an exceptional selection of grower champagnes.