Emanuele and Michela Scarello are heirs to 130 years of history that began when their great-great-grandfather Umberto, formerly a king's guard, received a license to open a shop as a thank-you for his service to the crown. The bounty of sea and land provides the inspiration for Emanuele’s cooking, in dishes such as an infusion of potato peels in vegetable broth (Godia being home to some of the best potatoes in Italy) or gnocchi with butter and sage, and a sort of “vegetable marrow” made with salsify. His sister, Michela, deftly lords over the front of the house.