The family-run Dysart in Petersham has much to recommend it, not least its quaint half-timbered home and leafy setting downriver from Richmond. Roux Scholar Kenneth Culhane has led the kitchen since 2012, cooking classically minded food with a firm foundation in French technique accented by Japanese flavors. The signature charred bream with radish, ginger and champagne appears on both the three-course menu and the tasting menu. The global wine list isn’t too loftily priced, with plenty by the glass. Occasional classical concerts too.