Chef Ben Marks started young, racking up experience at Operakällaren in Stockholm, an apprenticeship at Claridge’s, a year at Noma and Phil Howard’s The Square, all by the age of 22. In 2016, still just 24, he and old school mate Matt Emmerson opened their debut restaurant – cool, cosy Perilla on Newington Green, a fashionable and foodie enclave of northeast London. Marks has a good eye and a bold palate, demonstrated by Cornish monkfish on strawberry sauce vierge; colcannon scotch egg with wild garlic soup or a seaweed scone with clotted cream and black currant.