Picture a proper northern country pub and you’ll probably picture something like Freemasons at Wiswell in the Ribble Valley, with its old wooden beams, flagstone floors and crackling fires. Locally born chef Steven Smith takes regional ingredients and puts his own creative and contemporary spin on them. Velouté of woodland mushrooms comes with fondue of Procter’s Kickass Cheddar and a truffle cheese hot dog, while aged beef fillet comes with sticky cheek and pickled tongue, gherkin ketchup, beef-fat chips and Sauce Mr Smiths. There’s a menu for every occasion, from a seasonal carte to Sunday lunch, and a tasting menu.