Open since the mid-1950s, this revered institution is practically synonymous with its specialty, fritto misto: a platter of all things fried. We’re not talking fried prawns, but kidneys, sweetbreads, testicles, brain, liver (fricassà neira in Piedmontese dialect) and lungs (fricassà bianca); then bits of meat, pieces of sausage, slices of sirloin and black pudding; then vegetables, apple slices and sweet polenta. All of this is meticulously cut into small pieces, each separately deep-fried in olive oil and butter and served steaming hot. It’s only served in the winter months, when there’s usually a waiting list.