Ikoyi is one of London’s most extraordinary restaurants. Jeremy Chan acknowledges the West African culinary traditions that his kitchen moves within, using ingredients, spicing and techniques, but he does so in the context of fine dining, making a powerful argument against the dearth of African cuisines in the sphere. A smoked crab jollof rice and a plantain dusted with lurid raspberry salt and dipped in a scotch-bonnet mayonnaise are singular dishes that rely on the intersection of respectful history, impeccable technique and dayboat seafood or grass-fed meat from some of Britain’s finest producers.