The setting may quite literally be old school – Sorrel occupies a wooden-beamed old schoolhouse in the Surrey town of Dorking – but Steve Drake’s cooking is anything but. The 2001 Roux Scholar learned his trade at some legendary ’90s addresses (Chez Nico, The Oak Room, Aubergine…) and now cooks in a style that’s rooted in the classics but is ever evolving. Expect such dishes as guinea fowl coq au vin with roasted cabbage, pickled pear and bitter chocolate or hand-dived scallop, ponzu and langoustine sauce.