For 67 years, Jockey was the restaurant of choice for Spain’s socialites, with King Juan Carlos being a regular. It closed in 2012, and the space lay empty until Saddle opened its doors in 2019. Adolfo Santos’s cooking is a continuation of the type of bourgeois cuisine that was popular at Jockey: a roasted lobe of foie gras served with brioche, blue lobster with a salad of braised lettuce hearts and citrus fruits, tripe stew made in the style of the old Jockey or wild turbot in a champagne sauce with cockles and a fennel salad.