British-Nigerian restaurateur Aji Akokomi has been nothing if not ambitious for Akoko, his debut restaurant, which he launched in Fitzrovia straight after lockdown ended in 2020. After Theo Clench's departure for Cycene in 2022, he brought on Ayo Adeyemi (ex-Tippling Club, Singapore) whose tasting menu involving blue lobster claw pepper soup or smoked goat with mustard seeds and burnt cucumber shows a more traditional approach to West African cuisine than you will find at Ikoyi. Clay walls, African art and contemporary ceramics set the scene.</p)