Although Essex native Tom Booton took over The Grill at the Dorchester  in 2019, it wasn’t until 2023 that he finally got his name above the door.. Booton eschews the traditional menu format for sharing dishes in a high-low register. Diners might begin with Cornish crab tart with N25 Caviar or duck liver custard and cèpe chutney before rolling up their sleeves for “all the chicken” or a half-kilo rib eye with frickles and a side order of triple-cooked chips and gravy mayonnaise. The wine list roams from England to Japan but finds itself in France.