Hugo Muñoz’s obsession with Japanese food ran so deep that his friends nicknamed him Ugo. His cuisine ranges from simple nigiris, like one of torched fatty tuna, to more fusion offerings, like a nigiri of cod cheek tempura with pil-pil sauce. Muñoz also puts his formal training as a chef to good use in his Robuchon tribute, which combines tuna tartar with smoked eel gelee, cauliflower foam and Iranian caviar, and a foie gras, eel and aged mirim nigiri, a tribute to Martín Berasategui’s cremat. A thoughtful list of wine and sake complements the interesting food.