When Lume folded due to the pandemic, it wasn’t immediately clear what Luigi Taglienti’s next move was going to be. Surprisingly, he opened this restaurant in the quiet town of Piacenza, as part of the Volumnia gallery project, an exhibition space in a deconsecrated church dedicated to historic Italian design. The menu finds a balance between his more avant-garde spirit and a natural cuisine, expressed in the rediscovery of forgotten recipes: a very traditional lasagna has a hint of green lemon zest, while lobster is served inside turnip ravioli with Gruyère, a take on the classic thermidor.