Angelo Sato, born and raised in Tokyo, has a résumé bristling with big names (Ryugin, Eleven Madison Park, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Restaurant Story …). He took on the former Barrafina site on Frith Street in 2021, reimagining it as a yakitori bar. He reimagined it again two years later, upgrading it into one of the vibiest omakase joints in town. Sato’s an engaging presence behind the counter, sending out a succession of finely wrought small plates, such as mussels with avocado and citrus kosho ponzu, smoked chicken karaage or braised pig trotter buns. Sake bests wine in this context.