Lovers of game should make the 45-minute trip from Milan to the bedroom town of Albiate, where the Vergine brothers run this inventive little restaurant whose intention is to revive a Lombardian cuisine dating to before the region was industrialized. Riccardo Vergine’s menu is void of farmed meat or fish, with the exception of the poultry which they raise themselves: hence one of their signature dishes, Nonna Bolis’ Courtyard, inspired by their great-grandmother, Rita Bolis’ courtyard, with its free-roaming chickens, rabbits, geese and a small vegetable garden: centenary egg, cockscomb, rabbit heart seared on hot coals and goose breast.