Thanks to a devotion to all-things-Japan bordering on the obsessive (he’s been there over 70 times), Tuscan chef Francesco Preite has gained the status of sushi master at his tiny Moi Omakase, where every night at 9:00 he serves a 20-course fixed menu to 10 customers. A selection of nigiri varies day by day, based on market and seasonality, ranging from octopus from Viareggio to oysters from Brittany, sea bass from Conero and pezzogna from Lerici to red salmon from Alaska and melt-in-your-mouth Hokkaido scallops.