After closing his El Coq in his hometown of Marano Vicentino, Lorenzo Cogo has opened this restaurant in the charming Cannaregio district of Venice. A dama is the structure composed by briccole, wood posts that are waterway markers in the lagoon and that have also been used to construct the tables. Cogo serves a fairly classic cuisine – think tagliatelle, scallops and romanesco broccoli or dry-aged local sea bass, almond sauce and turnip greens – in which the use of spices is a nod to the history of Venice, the port through which they first arrived in Europe.