Chef Gianluca Gorini is proud to describe his restaurant as “provincial,” going as far as using his surname in its title, a hallmark of trattorias, though his cuisine has little in common with that style of cooking. Instead, Gorini’s offerings evoke the classic fare of Romagna, salty and dripping with fat, while at the same time paying tribute to his mentor, Paolo Lopriore, with a clever use of bitterness, umami and burnt notes, a quality that is evident in a dish of roast artichoke, artichoke sauce, salted capers and matcha green tea.