In 1970, Gianluigi Morini asked Nino Bergese, Italy’s most famous chef, to take the reins of this kitchen. Though Berghese left us in 1977, he made the place famous and his “cook of kings, king of cooks” approach to cuisine lives on via his pupil Valentino Marcattilii and Marcattilii’s nephew, Massimiliano Mascia, who has added a contemporary touch to dishes like the famous uovo in raviolo. Excellent service is provided by Natale Marcattilii, and the wine service from sommelier Francesco Cioria is superb.