The name is Fuor d’Acqua, or “out of water,” not only because this is a fish restaurant but also because it’s in Florence – best known for steak served so rare it’s almost blue. The sea is not actually that far away. Fish arrives daily from the market in Viareggio, and the restaurant prides itself on receiving the afternoon catch at the same time the first guests arrive in the evening. Start with the selection of crudi before moving on to the tagliatelle with crab or the grilled prawns.