Ask chefs in northern Italy for advice about where to eat and Silvio Salmoiraghi’s name will pop up frequently. Despite being little known, the alum of Gualtiero Marchesi’s kitchen is a chef’s chef, widely appreciated by colleagues and critics alike. The restaurant takes its name from the watercolors (acquarello in Italian) that decorate the dining room. The chef’s cuisine is highly personal and gentle, and yet daring at the same time, and his extremely loyal clientele often returns to enjoy dishes such as a cold bowl of pasta with caviar, mint and spring onion gelée.