Recently relocated to a larger space, this restaurant could be anywhere in the world, but its Argentinian chef, Paulo Airaudo, chose to make San Sebastian his family's home. The chef's tasting-menu-only experience combines the flavors and textures he has experienced during his travels. His international approach focuses on the use of seasonal and sustainable raw materials, like a dish of local baby peas with lardo and an egg, as well as re-imagining ways to use long-forgotten products. Mario Giunti does a terrific job of matching wines to Airaudo's cuisine.