During the 1960s, when Josep Mercader manned the stoves of this unique restaurant in the Ampurdán region of Catalunya, just 90 minutes north of Barcelona, this was the epicenter of avant-garde cuisine in Spain. Jaume Subirós, who had trained with the Troisgros brothers, took the reins back in the 1990s and converted this beloved restaurant into a pilgrimage for lovers of traditional and bourgeois cuisine. Subirós is obsessed with the produce from his region, and he applies academic preparations to create one of the more joyful dining experiences in Spain. A living history of gastronomy.