When Ollie Dabbous’s giant, three-floor Piccadilly operation in partnership with Hedonism Wines opened in mid-2018, it immediately gained classic status, thanks to Dabbous’s cooking wizardry. Trained under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, he melds classic French cooking with exciting flavors and quite a lot of dry ice. On the ground floor is the more casual all-day brasserie, while Above, on the first floor, is tasting-menu-only. High-end, high-provenance ingredients meet unexpectedly in the two (think wagyu beef shavings, oscietra caviar and rye in oxtail broth). The bar in the basement, called Below, serves a lengthy list of familiar and exotic spirits.