The spotlight’s been on young Mexican star Santiago Lastra ever since René Redzepi picked him to lead Noma’s Tulum pop-up in 2017. Now ensconced in his own restaurant KOL, est. Marylebone 2020, Lastra takes British ingredients and makes them Mexican. Who else would pair langoustine tacos with sea buckthorn, short rib costillas with fermented blackcurrant, barbacoa of lamb with nettle and arbol salsa or buñuelos with Tunworth ice cream? On offer is an astounding list of Mexican spirits – tequila, mezcal, agave – complimented by a list of wines from central and eastern Europe.