Anglesey-born Tomos Parry is one of the hottest chefs on the London scene. Brat in Shoreditch is as busy as it was on its launch five years ago, and his 2013–2015 pop-up has triumphantly returned as Brat at Climpson’s Arch. Mountain, Parry’s first foray into Soho, features Basque cooking using Welsh ingredients. Menai oysters; spider crab omelette; lobster caldereta for four or five people; mutton chops, whole mallard duck or aged Friesian beef rib—all cooked on the wood grill. The sourcing is impeccable, the butchery in-house. Plan ahead, or try early for a walk-in at the counter.