One of London's most singular restaurants, Otto’s is an exercise in flamboyance, excess and devotion. Canard a la presse – duck carcass crushed at the table – sums up everything about the place: it’s messy, intense, fiercely traditional and worth experiencing at least once. Otto Tepasse is the ideal chef-owner, a ferociously passionate stickler for how he wants things to be married to a generosity of spirit, always encouraging another dessert, glass of excellent French wine or eau de vie.