Good luck securing a spot at the hinoki wood counter at Endo at the Rotunda, Endo Kazutoshi’s Kengo Kuma–designed sushi-ya atop the old BBC TV Centre in West London. The Yokohama-born sushi master, sake connoisseur and former punk guitarist serves his 20-course omakase to just 10 guests at a time, paying attention to every last detail, from the blend of aged soy sauces to the wasabi from Mount Fuji and the pH of the water in which he cooks the rice from his family’s farm.