Low-key and luxurious, Medlar’s menu – all starters and mains, no small plates here – is a study in elegance. Wild Cornish brill, Belted Galloway beef and Christian Parra boudin noir – a prized example – are all treated with due care and attention, supporting ingredients reflecting the worldly-wise attitude of the kitchen. Melania Battiston’s wine list is one of the best in all of London, and a reason to visit this restaurant all by itself. Open for Sunday dinner, when good cooking isn’t easy to find.