At Gordon Ramsay’s luxuriously carpeted modern French restaurant in Knightsbridge, the red wine is obviously very fine indeed. In the kitchen is Russell Bateman, who trained under Marcus Wareing and with Daniel Clifford at Midsummer House in Cambridge. His ingredients are excellently sourced and prepared in a manner that can be described as sedately decadent – pressed foie gras with Sauternes and smoked duck, Dexter beef with charcuterie sauce – with tasting menus available as well as a chef’s table experience.