The John in question is John Duffin, a local chef who returned to open a restaurant at his family’s farm in Leicestershire in 2014, after working for such luminaries as Gary Rhodes, Claude Bosi and Marcus Wareing. John’s House is quite literally farm-to-plate, with much produce sourced on the spot including Gloucester Old Spot pork, wild mushrooms and grass-fed beef. Three- to seven-course menus might include Cornish cod with brawn, passionfruit and curry spices or ox tartare with pumpkin seed, charcoal and grilled cream. The wine list is big on by the glass, Coravin rarities, and big names en magnum.