The Forest Side is a Victorian stone mansion nestled in the heart of the Lake District at Grasmere, in Wordsworth country. The patio doors are thrown open in the summer; the rest of the year, you can witness the landscape from inside the contemporary country-style dining room. Paul Leonard uses what’s on his doorstep – quite literally, in the case of the kitchen garden – for ChalkStream trout smoked over green juniper with cured ham fat broth or salt-aged hogget with garden leaves. Even the cocktails incorporate foraged ingredients.