Hjem – the name is a shared Northumbrian and Scandinavia word for home – lies deep in Hadrian’s Wall country west of Newcastle. It’s home sweet home to Swedish chef Alex Nietosvuori, whose résumé includes stints at Frantzen, Daniel Berlin and Fäviken, and his locally born partner, Ally Thompson, who welcome 24 guests every evening to their dining room and open kitchen within the Hadrian Hotel. The tasting menu links local produce and Scandi technique in dishes like roasted yeast with smoked trout roe and oyster mushrooms, pine and Lindisfarne oysters. Biodynamic wines abound.