Roots, just beyond York’s historic center, is the second restaurant from Tommy Banks of the Black Swan at Oldstead. Banks is of farming stock, and the produce of the family farm decides what goes on the 12-course tasting menu. Head chef Will Lockwood has been with Banks since 2014 and has worked his way up the chain of command. His menus might include crab with parsley, caviar and crab toast; or aged beef with salsify and lovage. You’ll have no trouble finding a wine match; they do 130 by the glass.