Martin Wishart’s eponymous restaurant on the Leith waterfront celebrates 20 years in 2019. The dining room is a model of contemporary luxury, all carpeted floors and white-clothed tables nicely spaced. Wishart learned from the old guard; he came up via the Rouxs, Marco Pierre White and John Burton-Race. What to expect? Perhaps Shetland squid with puy lentils and lomo de bellota or Orkney scallop with Comté, parsnip, pear and vin jaune, accompanied by wines made by some of France’s grands noms.