Chef patron Laurie Gear and his wife, Jacqueline, opened their quietly ambitious neighbourhood restaurant in a listed 16th-century building in the heart of Old Amersham, Buckinghamshire, in 2002. Gear’s cooking leans classical European underpinned by seasonal British produce, including game, shellfish and wild ingredients. Veal sweetbreads, with roasted kohlrabi, pickled mustard seeds and veal sauce or Crapaudine beetroot, Douglas Fir pickled golden beetroot, diced apple and kale tempura are typical of his refined style. Full vegetarian carte and tasting menus available too.