Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant in Padstow – or Padstein, as it has come to be jocularly known – has kept this Cornish seaside resort in visitors since 1975. Stein himself is unlikely to be in the house, but his presence is felt on chatty menus chock-full of his greatest hits. XO Clams, deep-fried camarones with migas, Frank Hederman’s smoked salmon and whole sea bass cooked in a banana leaf tell of Stein’s globe-trotting adventures. The fish and chips and fruits de mer are faithful friends.