Gareth Ward has transformed fuddy-duddy Ynyshir Hall in the remote Welsh countryside into Ynyshir – no longer a country house hotel but a progressive and provocative restaurant-with-rooms. Since moving to Wales after three years at Restaurant Sat Bains and five at Hambleton Hall, Ward’s developed an obsession with Welsh wagyu from local farmer Ifor Humphreys in Montgomery, which he ages on-site in its own suet for up to 300 days in a Himalayan salt chamber. Don’t leave without trying the beef-fat fudge.