Every town needs a restaurant like Alchemilla: original, exciting and achingly, achingly cool. Sat Bains protégé Alex Bond presides over the once-derelict Victorian coaching house from the open kitchens built into the bare brick arches. There’s a buzz about the place, and Bond’s progressive, plant-forward cooking. Tasting menus between 5 and 10 courses might include celeriac in goats’ butter and
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